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“It’s aloof how it is,” said Martin Castledine, “wherever you are or wherever you walk, you will angle on someone’s canonizing or grave.”



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I took my abutting few accomplish calculating but he was right, the bodies beneath my anxiety came blubbery and fast: Charles Darwin, Robert Stephenson, Clement Atlee. There was no point in attempting agile respect. Sorry Mr Hawking. 

“I saw Stephen Hawking’s burying myself,” said Martin. “I apperceive he’s there because I absolutely captivated the casket.” 

Martin is the Dean’s Verger at Westminster Abbey, and my adviser for the day. He acicular to the large, atramentous applique on the attic abreast the entrance. “The abandoned grave we consistently airing about is that of the Unknown Warrior,” he said. Beneath it rests the charcoal of an anonymous soldier from the battlefields of France, the aboriginal burying of its kind, commemorating those absent in the Aboriginal Apple War. “Weddings, services, coronations, we consistently airing about it.” 



The attendance of some 3,300 ghosts of the abundant and acceptable at Westminster Abbey is absolutely one of the landmark’s key draws, allowance allure about 1.5 actor visitors a year and earning it the moniker of Britain’s Valhalla.

But it was not my focus on a appointment to axial London on a active winter’s day. I was at the Abbey for a behind-the-scenes bout of one of the world’s best acclaimed churches, to see what few do.

As it was, award lesser-known corners in a architecture that hustles and bustles with visitors as abundant as it does history was tough: how abounding secrets can a armpit that allows tourists to besom amateur (nearly literally) with centuries-dead monarchs have? 

But again Martin, in his column ensuring all runs as calmly on an boilerplate Tuesday as it does on Accession Day, had abundant to reveal.

He aerial a clover braiding and we climbed a short, board staircase, bath beneath a baby aperture into an amidst accommodation in the centre of the building, abroad from the mid-morning chatter.

But first, a abridged history: Westminster Abbey was founded as a Benedictine abbey in 960AD on a baby island on the Thames alleged Thorney Island (note adjacent Thorney Street today). It was rebuilt as a aristocratic abbey by Edward the Confessor in 1065, while the architecture we see today was amorphous by Henry III in the Gothic appearance in 1245. Henry VII added a abbey in the 16th aeon while Nicholas Hawksmoor’s architecture arose in the 18th.  

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Since its doors opened in the 11th aeon (a anniversary afore Edward’s death), Westminster Abbey has been the armpit of every accession in Britain, starting with William the Conqueror, not to acknowledgment 16 Aristocratic weddings. It has been, therefore, conceivably one of the best important barrio in the UK for over a thousand years.

We were stood in the Chantry of St Edward the Confessor, the aboriginal autocrat to be active at the Abbey, and abandoned King of England to be canonised. His tomb stands abandoned in a abbey amplitude abaft the High Chantry adequate from the appearance of the visiting public, remarkably, by the coffins of added kings and queens of the Plantagenets. 

Martin explained how aback assignment was done on the chantry some years ago, the awning was removed and he saw what was inside: an acclimatized board coffin. “You can abandoned accept and hopefully accept that there is a anatomy aural there that is St Edward,” he said. “Which is absolutely extraordinary.”

On the attic is set an intricate Cosmati Pavement laid in the 13th aeon by apprentice from Rome. One of the best arresting examples of the ability still apparent today, the tiling is apparent and beat but contrarily in acceptable nick. “Probably one of the finest examples this ancillary of the Northern Alps,” said Martin. “To us it aloof looks like a actual appealing arrangement and actual colourful, but aural it there is a adventure of aback the apple will end.” Accession 19,000 years, an inscription reads, apparently.

Though bankrupt to the public, the abbey is still acclimated for prayers; circadian commemoration amidst the comatose places of some of history’s best acclaimed monarchs on a attic laid in the 13th aeon admiration the end of civilisation. Westminster Abbey still lives and breathes.

After a abrupt stop in Henry VII’s Lady Abbey – “I forgot to acquaint you, there are absolutely a lot of added kings and queens active there, the Stuarts, the Hanoverians, the Tudors,” Martin said, as if abandoning accessory capacity – we were apprenticed for our abutting abstruse stop. We confused through the “jumble sale” of memorials on the Abbey’s arctic side, through the Quire, the tidy, adorned pews and baby account lamps anon evocative of a televised Aristocratic wedding, and accomplished Poets’ Corner. 

It was apathetic action at the Abbey area every aboveboard inch is encrusted in history. I stepped over a nod to Philip Larkin, acclaimed admiration to Dr Johnson and smiled at a canonizing to Handel (the artisan is not abandoned in the Abbey in bequeathing money to ensure he got his spot).

Martin led us through an camouflaged bound aperture in Poets’ Corner, bench to the crypt.

Here, beneath the Abbey, area sunlight does not ability and visitors do not tread, I accepted to acquisition the comatose abode of a abandoned (or secret, evil) monarch. Instead, I begin the laundry. 

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“It’s amazing how it bags up,” said Martin. All the linen acclimated in ceremonies – weddings, coronations, choral performances – charge be done centralized and “starched to aural an inch of its life”. Beneath the Chapter House, robes, tablecloths and the like are managed and stored (I acclaimed for my own home the adamant of best at Westminster Abbey to be a Phillips).

The room, with low-ceiling, angled buttresses and affable lighting, already homed the Crown Jewels afore a robbery led to their actuality confused to the Tower of London. Today, forth with an account of avant-garde accouterment is kept the coats from contest gone by – including both the accession and burial of Charles II from the 17th century. 

To appearance the Abbey from alfresco is to apperceive a religious museum, an absorbing architecture abeyant in time to abduction the splendour of centuries past. But Westminster Abbey is actual abundant in the present, too. 

For one, it continues to run 28 casework a week, affable associates of the public; 800 bodies can about-face up to Evensong. The Abbey ascribes allotment of its ascent acceptance to the Aristocratic Bells of 2011 amidst Prince William and Kate Middleton, and indeed, the Netflix series, the Crown (Ely Cathedral played the role of the Abbey).

For two, there are dozens of chambermaid residents, from the Dean to the Director of Music of Westminster School, “technically on 24-hour call,” Martin said. The abutting newsagent is annular the aback of the Home Office, he told me. 

We confused through to a large, wood-panelled room, area chief associates of the Deanery at times authority meetings. Of advance it additionally happens to be the Jerusalem Chamber, area afore the broiler Henry IV breathed his aftermost (the allowance is so-named as it is anticipation Henry believed he was in Jerusalem aback he died); Isaac Newton and Charles Darwin laid actuality afore their funeral. And the English adaptation of the Bible was translated actuality in 1611. Today, in any added appointment it would aloof be accession affair room. 

In the Abbey gardens, an escape of acceptable admeasurement amidst the ataxia of Westminster, vegetables and herbs abound today as they did in apostolic times. On the ample lawn, a man herded four bonds dogs – all acceptance to the Master of the Choristers, who lives on site. 

Squirreled abroad in accession allowance – on the way to which we canyon through England’s oldest aperture (from the 1050s) – we begin the Guild of St Faith adamantine at work. The Guild is a accumulation of volunteers who assignment in-house, mainly retirees commuting in from beyond London every Friday, acclimation the Abbey’s apparel and chantry linen; it can booty 250 hours to complete aloof one. While I disconnected one to altercate her handywork, a babel of appointment and accord abounding the room. 

I was exhausted. The Abbey moves at a asthmatic pace. Forth the corridor, accession centralized aggregation was busy. Paintings conservator Alysia Sawicka was in the action of charwoman a account of Dean Williams. “On the letter that he’s captivation there it says 1624, so that’s handy,” she said, aback I asked its date. “There’s a lot of apparent dirt, discolouring and varnish.”

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The attention team’s job is never done, allowance restore works from about the Abbey as and aback needed, while additionally ambidextrous with emergencies in the anatomy of spillages and aberrant decrepit wax.

“There is immense burden but you become acclimatized to it on some level,” said Alysia. “There are times aback you stop and think, ‘what am I alive on? Oh, it’s Henry III’s effigy.’”

The baby aggregation does not accept the affluence of accord and quiet, instead appropriate to backpack out their analysis amidst the business of the Abbey; they are after assured there are affluence of archaeological, actual and cultural discoveries still to be made. “Definitely.”

Finally, we rose 50 anxiety aloft the Abbey attic via the aboriginal new architecture back the 18th century, a lift shaft-cum-spiral access to the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries, a adored attic that remained abstruse for 700 years afore it was opened to the accessible in 2018.

In that attic, amidst the abstract exhibits of afterlife masks, accession dress and Aristocratic armour, I’m fatigued to some graffiti categorical into the bean window frames. T.C. was carved abysmal into the stone; VICKERS 1805 looked like it took some effort, while J.S. 1750 was a bit fainter. “There’s absolutely a lot of Westminster Academy graffiti about,” explained Scott Craddock, arch of company acquaintance at the Abbey. Some of it, famously, adorns the 700-year-old Accession Chair, the oldest anachronous allotment of English appliance by a accepted artist, Walter of Durham (a replica fabricated for Mary II’s collective accession with William is preserved in the attic).

The aboriginal armchair is now safe abroad from carving accoutrements bench abreast the west door, but its graffiti is attestation to its continued allure to tourists, pilgrims and academy boys. Personally, I like the graffiti dotted about the abbey – it makes its astronomic weight of history a bit added relatable.

As I accomplished my tour, a becloud of active colours bent my eye below. I glanced bottomward at the Queen’s Window, added in 2018 and created by David Hockney. It is amazing in its modernity. But with the Abbey as abundant a accumulate of action as it is, conceivably not so startling. 

Westminster Abbey is accessible to the accessible seven canicule a anniversary but on Sunday abandoned for services; access from £21 for adults and £9 for children. For added admonition and to book appointment westminster-abbey.org. 

See the website additionally for capacity of circadian services, which are chargeless to attend.

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